Da Hong Pao (Wuyishan)

The dense, slightly woody-spicy aroma of the dry leaf lies on a pillow of ripe dark fruits, crème brulee and burnt caramel. And on top is a small violet. Warming in a gaiwan adds bitter chocolate, coffee, tobacco, vanilla and date.

Aged Wuyi oolong looks respectful. You can guess the shades of raisins, old dates, black pepper, cigars, a little castor oil.